Tuesday, 6 January 2009

Felled Seams

I have used this two-step seam method for most of the seams in the Elegant Lady's Closet drawstring dress.

Sew together the seams at 15mm as indicated in the pattern instructions. Open out the seam and trim back one of the seams, in this case I've trimmed back the fabric that was attached to the 'lining'.

Fold the outer edge in over the narrow edge and crease.

Fold again and pin.

At this point you can do a plain hem stitch.

I did a simple running stitch that suited this garment.

Monday, 5 January 2009

The Elegant Lady's Closet Drawstring Pattern

This historically accurate regency gown pattern is selling through Regency Reproductions and of late some home sewers have asked if there are any step-by-step photos demonstrating how to make this dress.

Here below are some quick photos in the hope they will be of assistance. The text used with the illustrations comes from the pattern instructions.

1. Bodice

Pin the bodice back and side back together, matching notches and easing curve as necessary.


Do note that the side back curve ends below the shoulder of the bodice back piece. This is correct and creates an inward curve for the sleeve.

Clip curves.

Press seam toward the side.

Press and fell both side back seams (see post on felled seams)

Make a narrow hem on the top, bottom, and front edges of the bodice front 'lining' pieces.
[I prefer to do a running stitch by hand here]

Pin and baste front lining piece on top of bodice front piece across the shoulder, around the armhole, and down the side seam, right side of lining to wrong side of bodice, matching up armhole edge and side seam. [my basting line is 10mm in from the edge]

Pin bodice front and back pieces together at shoulder seams, right sides together. Stitch.

Press seams toward the back of the bodice.

Fell both 'shoulder' seams.

Pin bodice side seams together ("lining" will be on top). Stitch, stopping at the first dot and resuming at the second dot.

[Snip thread between both, as long as you have knotted the thread. My machine does an automatic knot.]

Sunday, 4 January 2009

Regency Seams

Below are three scans taken from my silk regency gown showing how the bodice is joined to the skirt. You can click on the images for an even closer inspection. The bodice has been completely finished, with the linen lining whipstitched to the outer fashion fabric. The skirt edge has been left raw, and sewn with diagonal basting stitches.

Above: Standard view of the seams.

Above: Seam from the skirt side.

Above: Opening up the seam to show edge treatments.